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Keep Your Yarn Stash Neat!

4/17/2016

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This is definitely an upgrade from my DIY with used cardboard TP rolls! But whether it's with a yarn winder or with something recyclable you can find at home, keep your yarn stash neat. Re-winding your yarn to pull from center will save you time untangling while you work. Yarn balls like these are easy to stack and will save you space.
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Re-use TP Rolls to Keep Yarn

4/10/2015

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No one likes it when this happens. It's no fun having to stop and untangle as you go. Sometimes I have to pause in the middle of a row and by the time I have enough yarn untangled and get back to the row, I'm lost LOL.

TP rolls are great for keeping leftover yarn or keeping the last few meters of your working yarn untangled. Start by untangling as much as you can.  It's annoying and time-consuming but at least you will only have to do it once.  After this, you can get on with your project and your yarn should come off the roll with no tangles.  When you have enough yarn to start winding, nick a bit at the top of the roll to lock the end in.
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and start winding the yarn diagonally around the roll.  Wind the next layer of yarn diagonally in the opposite direction.  Try not to wind too tightly. 
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Keep going while alternating directions. I like to wind the yarn around the upper part of the roll so that I can wrap the label around the bottom part in case I don't use up all the yarn.
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I met Cesar Millan!

5/5/2014

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Cesar Millan Crochet Junior






When I found out that Cesar Millan was coming to Manila, I made this puppy to look like his dog Junior. I was lucky enough to meet him and personally give him this gift!





Thanks to Ovation Productions for the passes and Mong Pintolo for the photos!

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Stuart the Minion Golf Club Cover

1/26/2014

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Crochet Minion Golf Club Cover
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I made this Stuart golf club cover for a friend's 11 year old daughter using the same basic pattern for the minion I posted earlier here. 


Variations:
Around the area covered by the goggle strap, crochet in FLO (front loop only).  After a few rows, set the head aside and make a flat circle using the 1st rows of the head pattern until you reach the same circumference as the head. Stuff the head and close the hole by sewing your flat circle into the BLs (back loops) you left from a few rows back.  The upper part is stuffed so the golf club doesn't go all the way into the head of the Minion causing it to get distorted. When you get to the point where you want the trousers to begin, change to blue. Keep making rounds in blue until you reach your desired length / depth. It will help to insert the golf club and move it around a bit to make sure the cover is deep enough that the cover doesn't tip over or fall off.  Then decrease to the required circumference (enough for the club to still fit through) then alternate FPHDC (front post half double crochet) and BPHDC (back post half double crochet) to create the sock looking lower part until you reach the desired length :) Test as you go to make sure it will stretch enough to let the club in.  You can change to black for the last few rows to represent the minion's shoes.

This golf club cover fits the 3 iron. 
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How to Crochet Ami without the "Pinwheel Effect'

10/15/2013

10 Comments

 
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Ever wonder why your ami puppy or snowman ends up with a swirl on its head?
I'm not sure what it's called but I can only describe it as a "pinwheel effect".  This happens when crocheting in increasing rounds because each of the stitch increases land only 1 stitch away from the increases of the round before.  Since I'm not very fond of this effect, and I think it looks funny on ami heads, I found a way to spread the increases out so they don't land too close to each other.

Below is a typical Amigurumi pattern.  On the left, marked with the orange stitch marker, is the result of the increases spread out, and on the right with the blue stitch marker is the result of following a typical pattern.  Instead of increasing the number of sc by 1 for every row and following each set of sc with an increase, I took all the rows with an even number of sc before an inc, and split the first set of sc and put the rest in before the end of the round.  I know, I'm confused too.  So I've marked those rows in red.
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R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: inc 6x (12)
R3: [sc, inc] 6x (18)
R4: sc, inc [sc 2, inc] 5x, sc (24)
R5: [sc 3, inc] 6x (30)
R6: sc 2, inc [Sc 4, inc] 5x, sc 2 (36)
R7: [sc 5, inc] 6x (42)
R8: sc 3, inc [sc 6, inc] 5x, sc 3 (48)
R9: [sc 7, inc] 6x (54)
R10: sc 4, inc [sc 8, inc] 5x, sc 4 (60)
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R11 -17: sc in each st around (60)
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R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: inc 6x (12)
R3: [sc, inc] 6x (18)
R4: [sc 2, inc] 6x (24)
R5: [sc 3, inc] 6x (30)
R6: [sc 4, inc] 6x (36)
R7: [sc 5, inc] 6x (42)
R8: [sc 6, inc] 6x (48)
R9: [sc 7, inc] 6x (54)
R10: [sc 8, inc] 6x (60)
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R11 -17: sc in each st around (60)
Even if it evens out as you sc 1 all around, you can still see the pinwheel at the top. 
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I apply the same technique when I decrease.
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R18: sc 4 dec [sc 8, dec] 5x, sc 4 (54)
R19: [sc 7, dec] 6x (48)
R20: sc 3, dec [sc 6, dec] 5x, sc 3 (42)
R21: [sc 5, dec] 6x (36)
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R18: [sc 8, dec] 6x (54)
R19: [sc 7, dec] 6x (48)
R20: [sc 6, dec] 6x (42)
R21: [sc 5, dec] 6x (36)

After stuffing, everything stretches of course and the corners round out a bit but again, the effect can still be seen.  Maybe it's not always noticeable but I very much prefer the effect on the left :)
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My Version of Hobbes!

9/10/2013

6 Comments

 
Crochet Hobbes
After months of scribbling and counting stitches on my notebook, I finally decided to "formalize" one of my patterns and share it here as a free pdf download. Sometime in July, I received an inquiry / order for a Hobbes doll.  The email said "Would love to have one made for the baby I'm about to have."  How could I say no?  But I had never made one before so I searched for photos online and decided to take on the challenge!

It took about 5 re-dos before I got the proportions about right.   At the request of the client, I sewed a smile on instead of Hobbes’ naturally sad mouth.
Download Hobbes Pattern
Bill Watterson, creator of Calvin and Hobbes refused to merchandise his creations by displaying images of Calvin and Hobbes on commercially sold items.  As such, I am sharing my pattern freely.   Please feel free to share this pattern with others but please don't forget to link back to this site.  
Please do not copy and sell this pattern.  Thank you.
A FEW TIPS BEFORE YOU START:
Because this doll is striped and I needed the color changes to line up, I joined the rounds as opposed to crocheting in continuous rounds.  

For all R1s:  Join the end of the 1st round with a sl st into the 1st st and then ch 1
R2 onwards: Skip last st and joined the with a sl st in the ch 1 of the previous round.

You can refer to myMinion Tutorial for more details on this technique.
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CHANGING COLORS:
If changing colors within a round, switch your yarn color before you complete the last sc.
If changing color at the end of the round, switch yarns before you sl st in the ch 1 of the previous round and then ch 1 with the new color.
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Switch colors before completing the last sc
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Ch 1 and mark
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Skip the last st and sl st in ch 1 of previous round
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At the end of the row, skip last st and sl st in ch 1 of the previous round
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And sl st with new color

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Ch 1 and mark
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Rainy Days are Crochet Days!

8/23/2013

2 Comments

 
The recent typhoon, monsoon and flooding have left me stuck at home for 4 days! I was able to turn this
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into this!
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Can you guess who he is?  Pattern coming soon!

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My 2-Eyed Minion Step by Step Tutorial

8/5/2013

50 Comments

 
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
I made this Minion based on a pattern designed by Stephanie Lau which appears on her blog AllAboutAmi.  She also has step by step instructions and photos but I made a few variations in the:
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
BIB
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
BUM SEAM
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
BOOTS & LEGS
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
and TROUSERS
As Stephanie has generously shared her pattern, I would also like to share my tutorial here:)
HEAD, BODY & GOGGLES
I followed Stephanie's pattern from R1 to R9 to increase to 63 st.  Because I wanted a shorter Minion, I sc'd around only 'til row 50 and started to decrease from there.  You can keep crocheting 'til you reach your desired height knowing it takes 7 rows to decrease and close.  Don't forget to put the hair in before you stuff and close.
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
I put glue on the tips of the Minion's hair to stop the yarn fraying.  Before finishing the body, I made the goggles so I could put them on to gauge how tall I wanted the Minion to be, where to put his smile and where his arms and trousers should start.  I followed the original pattern for the goggles but added 1 row to the side details to make them easier to fold and sew on.  I also inserted some craft wire in the goggles so they would keep their shape, making sure I stuffed the body just enough for a snug fit so I don't stretch the goggles out of shape.  Stephanie's pattern for the goggles is brilliant!
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
BOOTS & LEGS
To make sure my Minion could stand on his own, I made his boots like baby booties with a double sole. I also changed color from black to yellow instead of blue to go from boots to "Minion skin".  Just for the purposes of this tutorial, I used grey for the boots instead of black just so the stitches may be easily seen.  But Minion's shoes are made in black.

SOLES (make 4) I sl st (slip stitch) into the ch1 from R2-4.  Watch your tension. If your stitches are too tight, your soles won't stay flat and may start to curl in.
Ch 6
R1 (start in 2nd ch fr hook) inc, sc 3, make 3 sc in the last chain, (working on the other side of chain now) sc 4. (12) sl st into 1st sc, ch 1 and mark the ch 1 
R2 [sc 1, inc ] 6x (18) sl st into the ch 1 of the previous row and ch 1 
R3 [inc, sc 2] 6x (24) skip the last (extra) stitch, sl st into ch 1 of the previous row and ch 1 
R4 inc 4, sc 5, inc 4, sc 1, inc 3, sc 6, inc (36) skip the last (extra) stitch, sl st into ch 1 of the previous row and ch 1 
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To finish and close, cut yarn leaving a tail about 1.5" and pull through loop.  Thread the tail under both loops of the 2nd stitch from your last sc.  Close the loop by threading back through the center of the previous sc.  You won't notice where you started and where you ended!  And even if it ends up a bit messy, you won't notice when you use black yarn. Just make sure you have a total of 36 stitches.  If you're making a smaller and skinnier Minion, you can stop at R3 with 24 st to make smaller boots.
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Take 2 soles.  Don't worry if they're not exactly the same size.  The stitches will eventually line up.  Put them together with the heels toward you and the right sides facing out.  You can hide all the extra hanging tails in between.  For the purposes of this tutorial, I used yellow yarn to stitch the 2 soles together so the chains can be easily seen.  
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First, take the center of the heels and pull your yarn under all 4 loops - that's 2 from each sole.  You'll have 1 loop on your hook.   Then, insert your hook under the next set of loops, pick up the yarn and pull through the loop to make your 1st stitch.  Insert your hook under the next set of loops making sure you get under all 4 loops, pick up the yarn and pull through.  Keep doing this going around the sole.  The stitches facing you should look like chains. The side facing away from you will be the bottom of the boots and they'll have running stitches. 
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You can tuck the tail in before you end this row.  You'll finish and close this row much like you did with the soles.  You should have 36 chains total.  Again, don't worry too much if it gets messy in the end as long as you have 36 chains.
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Let's go back to grey yarn to make the rest of the boot.  Again, starting at the center of the heel, insert your hook under the 2 loops of the chain, pick up the grey yarn and pull through the chain.  You'll have 1 loop on your hook.  Yarn over, pull through the loop, insert your hook into the same (center) chain, yarn over, pull though.  You'll have 2 loops on your hook.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops to make your 1st sc.  Then sc all around.  This is R1.  End with a sl st into sc #1.  Ch 1.  Mark the ch1.
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R2 sc around (36) skip last st, sl st into ch1 of previous round and ch1.R3 sc 8, [sc 6, dec 4x, sc 6] in BLO (back loop only), sc 8 (32) skip last st, sl st into ch1 of previous round. Ch1.
R4 dec, sc 12, dec 2x, sc12, dec (28) skip last st, sl st into ch1 of previous round. Ch1.
R5 sc 10, dec 4x, sc 10 (24) skip last st, sl st into ch1 of previous round.  Ch1.
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R6 sc around (24) change to yellow before your last yarn over so you pull through with yellow yarn.  skip last st, sl st into ch1 of previous round. Ch1.
R7 sc around in BLO (24) skip last st, sl st into ch1 of previous round. Ch1.
R8 - 10 sc around (24) skip last st, sl st into ch1 of previous round. Ch1.
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In the end you should have a fairly even color change.  You can always cover any mess with the trouser legs later on :)  Finish and close R10 like you did with the soles.  Go ahead and make your 2nd boot. Try to keep the same amount of tension so your boots and legs end up about the same size.  Sew the boots and legs to the body.  I like to use stitches that go straight down and diagonally to make them look like crochet stitches.
PLACE YOUR MARKERS
Put the goggles on your Minion and mark where you want his smile, where his arms should go, where you want his trousers to start and how high his bib should go.
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
OVERALLS
While the original pattern starts at the bottom and increases up to the waist part of the trousers, I started at the waist and decreased.  
Ch 71.  Sl st to ch1 to make a circle.  Ch1
At the end of each round, skip the last stitch, sl st in ch1 and ch1 again as you did with the sole and boots.  Doing this will create the bum seam.  Make sure to keep count of your stitches.
R1 - R8 sc around (70)
R9 sc 4  dec [sc8, dec] 6x, sc4 (63)
R10 [sc7, dec] 7x (56)
R11 sc3, dec [sc6, dec] 6x, sc3 (49)
R12 [sc5, dec] 7x (42)
At this point, you can slip the trousers on.  You should stop decreasing at the point where the trousers touch the legs.
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Pin the trousers on to the body making sure the bum seam is aligned down the center of the back.  the seam shifts to the left due to the decreases so pin it in place as straight as you possibly can.

R13-14 sc around (42) or sc til you can see only 1 row of yellow on the legs.  In my case, it took only 2 rows.
Next, ch enough to join to the the middle front part of the trousers.  It's up to you how tight or loose you want your trouser legs to be.  Length of chain will also depend on the kind of yarn you use.  
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
You can join anywhere and sc around to make the right trouser leg.
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Sc continuously around the left leg until you reach the desired trouser length.  You'll need to sc on one side of the chain making sure you leave the other side of the chain for the right trouser leg.  Count your stitches at the end of the first round and try to make the same for the right leg.  Mine didn't come out even.  I think the right leg had a couple more stitches but in the end it really isn't very noticeable.  Finish and close as usual.
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
BIB
I'm not very fond of the look of turned work.  So instead of turning at the end of each row, I switched to my left hand and crocheted left to right and then switched back to my right hand to make the bib.  I did the same with the back.  It took 9 rows to reach my mark.
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Make the pocket, straps, arms and gloves following Stephanie's pattern.   Since my Minion is shorter, I made less rounds to make the arms.  I also made more rounds in the gloves to make them longer and come higher up the arms, and the fingers 1 round longer.  I found a Gru logo online, used black and light blue felt and fabric glue.

Add the eyes and mouth as you wish.  I used felt circles in white, brown and black to make my Minion's eyes.  I added little white dots to the eyes because without them, he looked like a zombie staring blankly at me.
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
Despicable Me Crochet Minion
So here is my finished Minion! Because of his double sole boots and big feet, he can easily stand on his own.  If you lift the hem of his trousers, you can see his yellow legs (tee hee hee). Unfortunately because of how the overalls are made, they will never come off like Stephanie's unless you make his trouser legs loose enough for his feet to pass through or make his feet smaller.

I hope you've found my instructions and photos helpful.  You are free to share them but please, link back to this blog should you wish to share any of my photos or instructions. Again, I'd like to thank Stephanie of AllAboutAmi for sharing her pattern and inspiring me to experiment and share :)

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Minion #3!

7/27/2013

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Today, almost a year since the last one I made, I finished Minion #3 as a birthday gift for a good friend.  It took about a week to make - a couple of hours every night after work and nearly all day on the week ends.  I took lots of photos this time as I plan to write about how I made this one as a variation of the original pattern by All About Ami.  More photos coming soon!

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Dreams Yarnshoppe

7/26/2013

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Located on Level 3, Glorietta 5
Phone: 02-8945380
Mobile:  0917 8803327

It's always a treat to visit Dreams Yarnshoppe.  I was there the other day to pick up some Red Heart Super Saver.  They come in 367 yard balls at P380 and 1,444 yards at P655.
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I got Pumpkin Orange, Black and White for my next project :)
They have a variety of yarn from China, the US and some local ones too.  Cotton yarn varies in price from P300 - 395 .
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Smaller, acrylic ones like Excel are P120 per ball. 
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Along with a wide range of kitting needles and crochet accessories, they also have Susan Bates crochet hooks at P450 per set of 6 hooks and a set of 5 from China at P395.  The individually sold hooks are P295 each.
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